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February 3, 2007

TO BE CONTINUED...

Feb 3rd

Today I must sign off, as we head back in the States to research and interview on the homeland, take a hot shower and visit an ATM.

Just when it was getting exciting. Don't worry, we'll be back soon with more great stuff for the next leg. A few cliffhangers for you...

The Saltwater Cowboy and Captain Chavez survived deserted islands and open seas to appear out of nowhere in Mexico. Will they survive Spring Break Cancun 2007?

Castro is back on his feet, to everyone's surprise. Will he survive to see the brothers? Will he don his cowboy hat one last time?

Jack and Ed discovered the first person in Havana who remembers their father. Will this lead them down a path of wonder, or will it, like many things in Cuba, be a confusing dead end.

I'd tell you if I knew, but this is real time folks. Or at least as soon as I can find an internet connection to update the blog.

Hope you enjoyed,
-Ed

January 31, 2007

THE GOD BEARD, PART II

Fidel, the superman. He was just seen walking around with Venezuala’s Chavez, which makes me both happy and uncertain. Happy, because it means our project is still alive. Uncertain because all of my information was so certain that he was on his deathbed. This makes me question everything. Things in Cuba are strange and complex like this. We had a better lead than most, yet a week later, this dude is marching along with Chavez and drinking orange juice.

I suppose you can chalk it up to his superman complex—I’m starting to believe he just might be.

Castro up and talking in new Cuban video

January 30, 2007

RETURN OF CAPTAIN CANCUN

Mexico – we arrived in Isla Mujeres today, wandered through town, and found CAPTAIN CHAVEZ! You thought we had killed him off, you thought he was doomed on that deserted island in Belize, you thought he would never make it to Isla and back into the story but you, like us, were wrong!!!!

The Saltwater Cowboy looks pretty damn good.

We have a new crew member, Tom, who sailed with Capitan Chavez up from Belize, successfully, a 45 hour trip. This leg of the adventure is almost over, but next season, you will find out if the Saltwater Cowboy is really up to the test.

I am excited. Until then, Captain Chavez has decided to charter her out for day sails during Spring Break. Perhaps he has found his calling. Instead of Captain Chavez we will have to call him, Captain Cancun. [shout it like "Captain Caveman" to truly understand]

January 26, 2007

BIOGRAPHY

I found this in a biography of Fidel by Claudia Furiati:

“Al pasar por Houston (Texas), Fidel se encontró con Raúl Castro, que le esperaba para mantener una conversación privada. Era inminente una crisis en el Caribe. Un grupo de expedicionarios había sido capturado al desembarcar en las costas de Panamá con el plan de provocar una rebelión, y entre ellos había varios cubanos.”

That’s all it says about Texas, just one sentence in the life of Fidel. Hopefully we can prove that it deserves at least three or four sentences, perhaps even a full paragraph. That would make me happy.

January 22, 2007

The God Beard

Fidel has had three surgeries, and instead of following what the doctor told him, he decided to go his own way. The surgery would be life threatening to a man in his twenties, not to mention an 80 year old man who has lived a life of unparalleled stress. He believes he is a god, and does not need to do what the doctors say. The main doctor is currently under house arrest, and will likely be the fall guy if Fidel goes down.

Word is that he is confined to a bed, with tubes in him. He is not in a coma, but cannot communicate, as the wounds did not heal. He will die any day, perhaps any hour.

He had a surgery to remove a section of intestine, and had a replacement from China. It did not work. The second replacement, the one he currently has, is from Spain, and was the result of the recent surgery by the Spanish doctor. However, many people who have this surgery, need to have a piece of the intestine outside of the abdominal wall connecting to a bag which collects waste matter. Fidel refused this, believing he is different than the normal human, and that was his mistake.

When he is gone…

Continue reading "The God Beard" »

January 19, 2007

SPUDS

Today we acquired a dog. He just followed us home, ten or fifteen blocks. I call him Spuds. So I let him come in and spend the night and have some food and water.

I had to get rid of him. Very sad. Hope Spuds makes his way in the world.

January 18, 2007

GOLDEN GLOBES

So how about some Golden Globe action up in Cuba. Oh, yeah! One of our friends has satellite tv—can’t tell you how—and he invited us to watch the Golden Globes. It was weird to see all the commercials again, and how pretty all those Hollywood stars looked. Big news when Babel won, because that’s from Inarritu, a Mexican director, therefore big in the Latin world. Beaty’s speech was interesting when he said he didn’t know how big he’d be worldwide because of the movie export, which as I’ve traveled I’ve come to regard as America’s most influential contribution, not because I’m in the industry, but that might play a part in it, but because everywhere I go people know movies and movies stars from the US. They are affected by the films, and some of them believe in the films as if they were real life. Movies are the world’s image of America.

I never thought I’d say it, but it was nice to see commercials again. I haven’t seen a commercial in two months.

Continue reading "GOLDEN GLOBES" »

January 17, 2007

BREAKFAST

Today for breakfast we are eating generic frosted flakes, orange soda, and coffee. I’d take a picture, but you don’t really want to see that, do you?

We hung out with Fiff and her grandson, Abdul, who prefers Apples to PCs.



January 15, 2007

TWO NIGHTS OF ENTERTAINMENT

Friday, Cuban Carlos Verera rocked the Karl Marx theater in Miramar. The show was full of people of all ages, but dominated by teenagers. The boys wore music shirts, Iron Maiden, John Mayer, and a couple David Beckhams. The girls were dressed in a more Urban Outfitters style, with funky hairstyles, often dyed, and that looked like something out of an alternative history. I’ll give the Cubans four stars for style.

Verera lays it out when he sings. He tells about the bad as well as the good and has been thrown in jail for it twice. This is where we have an advantage over Communism—we tend not to throw our musicians or artists in jail. Once we start to do that, we will lose our advantage.

Verera wears only black and sings about the downtrodden. Sound familiar? He certainly isn’t an MTV pretty musician. He is not skinny and he is not tall, and you would recognize him in the crowd if I told you to look for the gnome.

Continue reading "TWO NIGHTS OF ENTERTAINMENT" »

January 14, 2007

MUSEUM OF THE REVOLUTION

Jack has a famous birthday here, whenever Cubans hear what it is they laugh and shout revolution! July 26th, you see, is like their July 4th.

This banner is at the Museum of the Revolution, which chronicles the obvious with abundant information, however spotty or untrue that information sometimes seems—the museum contradicts itself in areas and tends to gloss over incidents like the Cuban Missile Crisis—but the amount of information and interesting photos makes it worthwhile.

Hats! Camilo Cienfuegos’ hat and Che’s beret.

Continue reading "MUSEUM OF THE REVOLUTION" »

January 13, 2007

INVESTIGATOR OF RICE

We met with the rice researcher. He had not heard of Blue Ribbon, but did know quite a bit about the rice industry in the US, and had in fact visited Beaumont, Arkansas, Louisiana, and Sacramento California, which is apparently a big rice producer. He was more on the research of agriculture than the business side, which is perhaps why he didn’t know. Funny thing – the researcher has a chauffeur but not a telephone, so he gave us his chauffeur’s home phone in case we need to get in touch.

Then we went to Lazaro and Christina’s for Red Snapper, or Pargo, as they call it here. It was tasty.

January 12, 2007

CUBA AND THE FUTURE

Today for breakfast, I am eating frosted flakes, orange soda, and coffee. It is quite scrumptious.

An online article from a US paper says young Cuban-Americans are becoming more liberal in their view towards Cuba / US relations. By “liberal,” the journalist means that they want to share cultures and open up the trading between the countries...


Continue reading "CUBA AND THE FUTURE" »

January 11, 2007

iGIMME SOME SUGAR!

With a guest coming over, we ran out of sugar. This is a situation, because Cubans like coffee in their sugar. Cuban coffee is some of the sweetest, strongest coffee available. Order an American coffee here and they will look at you like you ordered a milkshake at a biker bar. So began the hunt for sugar.

“Azucar,” I asked at a market. The sent me to a bodega. “Azucar,” I asked there. No. Six places later and nobody had sugar. This is Cuba, the land of sugar, which makes rum, which makes mojitos, which makes more Cubans. Hershey used to have a large factory here, and the sugar cane harvesting time is a national event. But nobody has sugar, and if even if we found it, it would be from the “bolsa negro,” the black market.

What we get in the States, refined sugar or, white sugar, is more expensive here. They have raw sugar, which ironically is in style in the US coffee craze, so more expensive there. Each family gets a bit of sugar on their ration card, but not much. Nothing on the ration card could support the diet of one person, let alone an entire family, and each family gets one ration book, whether they are three or thirteen. And don’t expect meat, especially cow meat, which is reserved for the tourist restaurants and paladars - prohibitively expensive to Cubans.

In the end, we actually borrowed a cup of sugar from our neighbors.


January 8, 2007

I DO PRACTICE SANTERÍA

I’ve shot birds with my grandfather before, and I accidentally drove over a sheep in Iceland, sending him hurtling off the road into the volcanic rock, but I’ve never been so close to killing an animal on purpose as we were today. I am still covered with feathers and chicken blood.

Some people might say, well, if they eat the chicken then I guess it’s ok. But they don’t eat the chicken. “We put it on the corner of an intersection,” says Osvaldo, 30, the Santaria priest, “for cleanliness.” This seems counterintuitive, throwing a dead bird on the sidewalk to clean it. Among the other diseases birds carry, the recent “bird flu” comes to mind. Which brings up the question, listen to the science, or believe in the magic?

The chicken was oddly peaceful throughout the affair, which I will refrain from describing in detail because you might stop reading and I don’t’ want to spoil the film. Though we will not be able to appease the animal rights activists by putting, “no chickens were harmed during the making of this film,” because one chicken was. Harmed to death. But this is their belief, so in this case, siding with the animal rights activists is small minded and ethnocentric. Though you do have to draw the line somewhere, as one cannot help but be disturbed by the clitoral removal surgeries in certain cultures. Personally, I draw the line somewhere between chicken and clitoris, closer to the chicken side.

The Priest chanted in rapid Spanish, I couldn’t quite understand what he was doing, but it sounded like he was stating one of those chain of decedents, “so and so begot so and so begot so and so etc.” He lit candles and spoke with the gods, of which there are four main ones. He spoke with his main god, and threw four little coconut discs, cut from a coconut. Depending if how many landed with the white meat part up versus the brown wood part was the god’s response.

“The gods will not put things in your hands,” his wife said, “but they can lead you in the right direction.”

The ritual we did was to ask the spirits for help with our project. Did it help, well, today, one day later, we found help from a rice historian, and a woman who ran the national archives here in Havana for 38 years - a self labeled “raton archivo,” or, “archive rat.” These are hopeful breakthroughs after a bit of a drought. I’m not saying they are because of the ritual, but the timing is interesting, no?

I won’t tell you what became of the ritual, because that would also be a film spoiler. All I will say is that it was very surprising, even goose bump raising. Below Jack and I pose with our Santería hats on.

Continue reading "I DO PRACTICE SANTERÍA" »

I DO PRACTICE SANTERÍA

I’ve shot birds with my grandfather before, and I accidentally drove over a sheep in Iceland, sending him hurtling off the road into the volcanic rock, but I’ve never been so close to killing an animal on purpose as we were today. I am still covered with feathers and chicken blood.

Some people might say, well, if they eat the chicken then I guess it’s ok. But they don’t eat the chicken. “We put it on the corner of an intersection,” says Osvaldo, 30, the Santaria priest, “for cleanliness.” This seems counterintuitive, throwing a dead bird on the sidewalk to clean it. Among the other diseases birds carry, the recent “bird flu” comes to mind. Which brings up the question, listen to the science, or believe in the magic?

The chicken was oddly peaceful throughout the affair, which I will refrain from describing in detail because you might stop reading and I don’t’ want to spoil the film. Though we will not be able to appease the animal rights activists by putting, “no chickens were harmed during the making of this film,” because one chicken was. Harmed to death. But this is their belief, so in this case, siding with the animal rights activists is small minded and ethnocentric. Though you do have to draw the line somewhere, as one cannot help but be disturbed by the clitoral removal surgeries in certain cultures. Personally, I draw the line somewhere between chicken and clitoris, closer to the chicken side.

The Priest chanted in rapid Spanish, I couldn’t quite understand what he was doing, but it sounded like he was stating one of those chain of decedents, “so and so begot so and so begot so and so etc.” He lit candles and spoke with the gods, of which there are four main ones. He spoke with his main god, and threw four little coconut discs, cut from a coconut. Depending if how many landed with the white meat part up versus the brown wood part was the god’s response.

“The gods will not put things in your hands,” his wife said, “but they can lead you in the right direction.”

The ritual we did was to ask the spirits for help with our project. Did it help, well, today, one day later, we found help from a rice historian, and a woman who ran the national archives here in Havana for 38 years - a self labeled “raton archivo,” or, “archive rat.” These are hopeful breakthroughs after a bit of a drought. I’m not saying they are because of the ritual, but the timing is interesting, no?

I won’t tell you what became of the ritual, because that would also be a film spoiler. All I will say is that it was very surprising, even goose bump raising. Below Jack and I pose with our Santería hats on.

Continue reading "I DO PRACTICE SANTERÍA" »

January 6, 2007

INOVATION AND JOGGING

We refilled a lighter today. A guy sits behind a tiny table on the sidewalk and fixes them. He charges three pesos (about 12 cents). He uses a nail, insecticide, and a knife. Ah, Cuba. It’s a country of McGuyvers. Another guy told me about a time his car broke down because it couldn’t suck gas from the tank, so he put gas in a water bottle, then ran the hose to it, then held the bottle outside the window while he drove.

I went for a jog on the Malecón today. From Centro Havana, over to Vedado and the National Hotel back to where the Prado starts. The sun was setting, and I wasn’t the only jogger out there, but it didn’t stop the girls from hissing and whistling. Not that I am special, they do this for fat Germans also, but it did seem to boost my jogging ability. Not only do you have their own peanut crowd, but if you stop, you have to deal with the hustlers and the hoes. They really are going to dig me in my new ride…


January 5, 2007

PAPERWORK

The visa renewal process has taken days. Yesterday, we waited for six hours in the sun of Old Havana outside an ornate building with all the windows busted out. It’s the immigration office and we were with the throng of tourists, locals, and in-betweeners waiting to go inside. At the nearby Plaza de Armas, I saw Kafka’s book, The Trial, in the street vendor stalls, and it sent a shudder down my spine.

Honduras was ridiculous with paperwork, but Cuba brings entire new stratospheres of forms and hoops and signatures and redundancy. It was so redundant, she used a separate glue to apply pre-glued stamps!

This is due to the politics behind the system, and now the US is heading in that direction (at least in the excessive paperwork department). We will soon need our passports when we go to Mexico. Why? The Mexicans don’t care if we just take a driver’s license and birth certificate – why are we adding rules to ourselves? Maybe we should just build a big wall of fire and if you can walk through it without getting burned you will be rewarded with a margarita. If you get burned, I suppose you were a witch, or Islamic. Or an Islamic witch. Wait a sec, don’t they both wear black cloaks? Someone should check into that.

Joking aside, sometimes the parallels are thought-provoking. For example, the photos below - the first is an old propaganda photo from Cuba, and the second a photo of a building mural in Los Angeles only a few years ago:

January 3, 2007

THE SPECTACULAR SPECTACLE

Last night I fell in love, danced on stage, got ripped off, and woke up to find my visa expired. What a night that I must pay for today, like I took out a happiness loan, and now owe exorbitant interest.

We were invited to a fancy Cuban spectacle. The big band jammed traditional Cuban tunes (a.k.a. Buena Vista Social Club for the tourists), and then the dancing girls put on a salsa display. One came into the crowd, and a second after I told Jack I would die if she picked me, her pretty hand descended below my head, she smiled, and there was no way I could say no. I went on stage and danced, trying my best, probably looking like a robot with all these rubber women. The girls were pretty, wore few clothes, and looking out over them from stage, a thought occurred to me. Communism, no matter how noble those are who attempt it, will never work because one girl is more beautiful than the next.

Fifi received a letter from the five prisoners in the US that Rolando’s film was about. That’s amazing. Here’s a blurry picture of her singing with her daughter and granddaughter.

With her granddaughter, the letter from the prisoner in her granddaughter’s purse, which she holds.

And Mabel, our salsa instructor, with her husband, Osvaldo, a Yoruba Santeria priest. I will explain more about that later, after the sacrifice.


January 2, 2007

RECIPE FOR A CUBAN NEW YEAR

For a Feliz Año Nuevo Cuban style, apply the following to your New Year’s party.

Start with the obligatory beans, yucca, rum, and beer. Add an entire leg of a pig, called lechón asado. Add a desert called Turron.

And…

At midnight, the cannons will start going off at the castle. Twenty one thundering detonations registering deep in your chest. Why don’t we have cannons, people?

Start pouring water off the balcony (which you will have gotten ready beforehand)
This rids all the bad stuff from last year.

Then ring the bell. Pass it around. (I know bells are fun, but don’t get greedy like this guy)

While the bell goes around, shake the men’s hands and kiss the girls, saying, “¡Felicidades!”

Then dance until your toes go gangrene. That’s a Cuban New Year.

January 1, 2007

Feliz Ano Nuevo!

Jan 1st

Happy New Year from Havana!!! I feel like it will be a revolutionary year.


December 30, 2006

GOODBYE 2006

You spend some days mostly waiting for them to be over. I remember how serious my dad was when he told me to never wish my time away, and I think about this during mundane things like the DMV line. However, I always end up wishing I could fast forward an hour or three. There are days like that, then there are days like today, where I can not begin to recount it all. My thoughts run off like a list, and I continuously jump to the next thing, in fear that something might be lost in the mix.

Fifi is a remarkable woman who lives in Arroyo Narañjo, traditionally one of the poorest areas of Havana, and, due to her social works, has been on the cover of the NY Times, traveled around the world and helped countless impoverished people. Of the US, she says the people in Boston are too uptight and serious – she prefers San Francisco.

Through her leadership, the mothers of her town built over 300 apartments and 30 social buildings. When I say built, I mean they wielded the pick and the axe, they shoveled the dirt, and they drew the plans and sifted the concrete. One morning when they were sifting concrete, a drunk walked by and stared at these women, stunned. He asked them if they were going to make the buildings out of meringue.

Today she spoke to a group of civil rights workers from Kentucky. We call them the Blockade Runners, because they are publicly traveling to Cuba in protest of the travel ban. Here is an article about them from the Louisville Times:

article from luisville paper on blockade runners

They are a brave and intelligent group of people, and have made me think about how an individual would go about changing the blockade. One difficulty is that it is impossible to change something if you don’t know anything about it in the first place. Because of the lack of communication between the two countries, most of the knowledge of the other place is approximated, or simply wrong. This is why traveling, like they are doing, is so important. I am only afraid that the shortness of their trip will preclude them from understanding the complexities of Cuba, much of which Jack and I don’t understand after a month. But it is a good start.

We met two rappers from the community. Their songs are a hip-hop/Reagatton mix with Cuban flavor, and pretty damn good.

I like this picture of a mother carrying her daughter because it represents the road of life.

The past sits exhausted in the background, while the present carries the future, which looks at us, the Americans. A Cuban told me the future of the world is in the hands of the Americans, which I believe. The little girl looks to us, while the mother has turned her back and carries the future away. What are we going to do?

Abdul, another representative of the future, might have the binoculars upside-down, but he guards his house nevertheless.


December 29, 2006

CLASSIC CARS

A Cuban artist is restoring a 1972 Volkswagen. He applied to the government to get a car, but they denied him because he has worked with too many foreign companies and visited the US too many times. So, he had to get an old car from an antique dealer, and pay the dealer, but the car is still titled in the dealer’s name, because it cannot legally be transfered. If, for example, he was able to get the governments go ahead, the process, would take months, maybe even a year.

A brand new, old classic car will cost between 3 and 5k but he hates the old cars here – to him they represent having no choice. They are obligatory, an of course break down constantly.

Buying a car here is not as easy as going to the dealer and applying for credit. Here is the process, for those in that lucky spot of having some cash to spend. For example, a foreign company pays you, a Cuban, $50,000 (an unheard of amount, but some Cubans have the skills to manage this) and you want to buy a car. First of all, if the job was paid in US dollars, which most are unless it’s a European company, they would take a 10% tax on the dollar. You now have 45,000. Then, due to the current exchange rate, another 10%, giving you, $40,500. Then you pay 15% to the union you belong to (i/e artists and writers), regardless of whether they got you the job, giving you 34,425.
Then you pay your tax for the job, which is 10%. (sounds low but imagine you’re making the average salary here - $24 per month) 30,982.50. The law says you can only buy a car that is half of your savings, so 15,491. BUT, the government charges 100% tax on the car. So…$7,745. Then, there is a $1000.00 fee. So, $6,745.00.

With $50,000 the most you could spend on a car is less than $7,000. You can afford a car in relatively good condition (meaning it only breaks down once a month) from the 1950s. Or you do like our friend did, and buy a “new” car, from 1972, German, and rebuild the entire thing. Rebuild means more here than in the USA, where you have qualified mechanics, endless parts, and clubs you can join to help. Here you will spend months waiting for an engine from Mexico, hoping it is decent. This car originally had two carburetors, but throughout the years it lost one, so the previous owners jury-rigged it to work with only one. Our friend wants it to be more powerful, so he and a mechanic are restoring it to dual carbs, but they must design the connecting part from scratch.

On top of all of this, the whole deal is underground, since the government will not let him have a car. The title of the vehicle will stay in it’s previous owner’s name, even though he will have paid for it. That’s buying a car. Imagine what a house would be like. I’ve asked a few people, and they just say “whew,” their faces look like they are trying to explain quantum physics to a fourth grader.

December 28, 2006

FILMMAKING IN CUBA

We passed by the Cine Yara, which was playing another friend’s documentary, El Proceso.

We were on the way to meet the only independent filmmaker in Cuba. He lives in the back of a duplex in Vedado with his wife, his cats, and his studio. We talked for hours, and he, a true director, told stories and held the conversation – fine by me because we learned a lot from him. His reel was more professional than many I’ve seen Stateside, and included quite a few commercials filmed in our neighborhood, Centro Habana, a dilapidated, ocean-front neighborhood full of hookers and hustlers. However, this is where you find authentic Cuba, the poverty and the beauty, the smiling, salsa dancing families with their windows wide open and they heels flying across the rugless floors.

Making movies in Cuba is difficult for foreigners to understand. The beauty we think of Cuba is restrictive to a filmmaker. There are no props, no camera rental places, and no locations that would be anything but dilapidated 1950’s. The locations are breathtaking, as are the cars, but your subject matter better by congruent. A foreign company asked our friend to shoot a rock video, which involved a rock band dropping from a helicopter onto a roof, being lit up, and rocking out. He laughed, because first of all there are no helicopters. The army has a few old Russian choppers, but that’s it. Second of all, there are no lights. And even if there were these things, as soon as the band landed on the roof, the entire building would collapse.

Oliver stone was recently fined by the US government years after he finished his film with Fidel, which I haven’t heard of it being played anywhere. The fine was just over $6,000, a paltry number for Stone, amounting to nothing more than getting his name in the papers again. He couldn’t have bought that much press for only 6k.

We’ve met only one person who has seen Oliver Stone’s film, which oddly played in the US Interest Section here. In his opinion, the film was a joke. Fidel fooled Stone, played him, as if Stone were a puppet filmmaker which Fidel was fingering. He said they interviewed dissidents in front of a crowd and in front of Fidel, and the dissidents of course said the predicted, “what we did was wrong – we should be punished to the full extreme of the law.” Fidel walked the streets with Stone and everyone came out so yell how much they loved him. Stone’s conclusions in the film where calculated by Fidel. The word he used was engañado, which means something like “played,” or “fooled.”

December 27, 2006

Artificial Intelligence

A movie came on today with Peter Gallagher called something like Artificial Intelligence. The humorous part was that it opened on a building called the Center for Artificial Intelligence, the C.A.I. The Spanish translation was, Centro Intelegencia Artificial, which made for a funny acronym.

As a side note, if anyone travels to Cuba, look for doors with this symbol, which stands for Casa Particular and are rooms for rent. It looks kind of like an eyeball.


December 26, 2006

COMA ANDANTE

Anyone who speaks Spanish might be able to understand the double entendre in today’s title. This joke was made by a Cuban, and that they joke is noteworthy in itself – signifying that the population is healthier than one might think, and perhaps when Fidel does die, the world here will not come to an end, as Americans predict. Things are certain to change, but don’t be surprised if the changes are smaller than you might expect.

Castro’s disappearance, now almost in it’s sixth month, is beginning to take on Howard Hughes proportions. He has passed up many opportune times to show himself, which could just be waving from a balcony. But nothing. The people don’t know what is going on, where he is, if he is alive or dead, in a coma, or cryogenically frozen. The reports I’ve read in US newspapers are even further off. Logically, one of the following must be true:

1. He is dead. But, he has spoken to people on the phone. Chavez might be down to pretend, and perhaps his impersonator fooled the Chinese leader on the telephone. But the Panamanian president has spoken to him, and others. The photos of him show a sick, old man. Because he is shown like this makes me think they are not trying to cover something up. And what would they gain? Perhaps Raul knows he cannot rule without Fidel behind him, so he is faking it, but how long can this last? Could you really pull off Weekend at Bernies with the leader of a country?
2. He is alive, but the doctors will not let him out. But who could keep him in bed if he wanted to get up? And could he be too incapacitated to even wave from a balcony, or make a television appearance. Or a radio broadcast? Photo updates? This choice seems impossible.
3. He is alive, but truly too sick. He is really too sick to do anything, including waving at the crowd. This means he would have to be bedridden, on the brink of death, for six months. It’s a long time, but perhaps possible. A Spanish doctor recently came to check on him, and said he has necrotic intestines, but not cancer, like the US papers were reporting. When we report these sort of rumors, the Cubans translate it to threats, fueling the divide.
4. Political play. Albeit far-fetched, this is my own conspiracy theory: Castro wants his final move to be bridging the US and Cuba. He wants this because he knows the people here are suffering, that it will happen eventually, so why not make it his swan-song. Maybe he has softened a bit in his old age and brush with death. Fidel knows the US will never change with him in power, so he has transferred it to Raul, so if the US wants to change they have a small loophole. He did not appear at the non-aligned summit or the parade because these events bolster his anti-imperialist stance,. Raul has shown a softer face to the USA, even requesting to end the blockade. If this happens, Fidel will reappear, and hold a honorary position, making sure the Cubans and Americans interact without losing the vision of the revolution.

December 25, 2006

CHRISTMAS IN HAVANA

Today we had Christmas dinner (They made chicken, yucca, rice and beans, etc.)
with Christina, Lazaro, Juan, and Theresa, and a friend from the country, whom they call “guajira,” which means “red-neck.”. Always a riot over there.

First we danced salsa. Or they danced, while Jack and I tried not to appear too foolish. Then we ate and ate and ate. After dinner we talked, and the conversation hit a few high points I’d like to revisit.

-First we talked about condoms, especially comparing Cuban condoms to better quality, foreign condoms, and how they never run out because all the foreigners bring so many. We discussed how foreign condoms sometimes come in flavers, and the “guajira” said if the condom were chocolate she would eat it instead.

Christina, who has a 33 year-old daughter, said she still uses condoms with her husband, who is 60. She looked at him and said, “I don’t know him! I don’t know where he’s been!” Poor Lazaro hid his red face behind his hand and at one point even fell off his chair.

-We discussed Juan, Christina’s grandson. His father apparently ran out on them and never sends anything, though he manages a fancy resort in the Dominican Republic. Christina reached behind her and pulled out a glossy brochure of the resort. Juan, entering his teen years, came in and she asked him who was his father. He said “nobody,” then put his arms around Lazaro, his grandfather.

-Eventually, as usual when we’re around, the conversation gravitaded towards Americans, whom they call Norteamericanos, or, imperialistas. Some things they said:

“Cuba is not dangerous like the USA, here you can walk on the streets and not get shot.”

“In Cuba, we spank our children when they get in trouble, in the USA, the parents call the police and have them thrown in jail.”

“In Cuba there are no drugs, unlike the USA where everyone is either a drug addict or a drug dealer.”

“Americans don’t learn history in school like Cubans do. In America, they don’t teach things like how much of America used to be part of Mexico.”

At first, this last statement angered me. I include it because it’s important to realize how many misconceptions Cubans have about us, and, as I learn every day, we have about them as well. This is not healthy on either side, especially for neighboring countries. It’s a sadness that reminds me of the elderly brother and sister whose forgotten offences as children effected a lifetime of silence towards one another. The lost time will never be recovered, but our Christmas dinner shows that, through interaction, healing is possible.

Merry Christmas to you all.


December 24, 2006

NOCHE BUENA

After a hearty meal of pig and rum, we met with some of our filmmaker friends and went to the Cathedral for La Mesa del Gallo, which, unless I misunderstood, means the Mass of the Rooster. It is a midnight affair, but Cubans don’t appear to sleep.

Non-formal attire, shorts, and red dresses dominated this tropical church service, and the crowd murmered throughout, like they do in the movie theater. There are only two non-government organizations here – the Red Cross and the Catholic Church. The Cuban Cardinal is a much more powerful figure here than I would have imagined. His eminence was was bolstered by his nomination as a papel candidate after John Paul II passed.

How fascinating would a Cuban pope have been. He used to be a fiery figure, criticizing society and speaking out against the government, but today he simply asked for peace around the world. I suppose this is a common request for priests these days. The crowd, however, seemed a bit disappointed that there were not the usual fireworks, and by the end of his speech, most had moved on.

We returned home where our neighbors constantly shout, with the occasional slap, and their entertainment alternates between good ol’ Contra and any movie of the dinosaur vs the army genre. I began praying for peace myself.

December 23, 2006

BEANS N BEANS N BEANS

While we wait for our two days of free meals, Jack cooked up some good ol’ rice and beans. Yummy!

December 22, 2006

MY FRIEND, WHERE ARE YOU FROM?

Next to the local store that sells Coca-Cola (I’m not sure how that capitolist juggernaught slipped around the embargo laws) a bicycle taxi splashed through the street puddles from today’s rain. The driver’s jurryrigged stereo and was bumping the club version of “California Dreaming.” It was a brief cinematic moment, broken when a jinetero tried to sell me a cigar. Endless tourists ensure that Havana’s hustlers don’t need many tricks. “What’s your name,” “Where are you from,” “Cuban Cigar,” “Do you have a lighter,” “What time is it,” are the gamut of openers. Entertain them and you’ll have a friend for the next few blocks or the next few nights.

The population is poor, and tourists who encourage the hustlers, whether they mean to or not, are incouraging the whole lifestyle. Like the children selling chicle in Mexico, where every cent they make goes to a chicle pimp who keeps the kids looking starved and sick, don’t give them money. It’s sad, but supporting it ensures the next generation will be holding out chicle in their grimy hands.

In Cuba, a low level grifter can make more money in a few hours than a doctor makes in a month. These things, especially the endless jineterism, charge me with the anger that gets worse with each one. “No, I don’t want your fake cigars and you are destroying your country and I might just report you to the police!” I didn’t say that, but we aren’t even halfway through yet.

The song’s lines, “I’d be safe at home, if I was in LA,” reminded me of my own home, Hollywood, the Pit, a dangerous place, where people fleece you whichever way you turn. A new crop of wide-eyed innocents shows up every day with their uncle’s savings in their pockets, only to fall into the thousands upon thousands of scams, pushers, and hornswogglers. The higher up on the hill you move, the cleverer they get. During one of my first weeks there, a man in an elevator said, “In LA, if you’re not scamming someone, you’re getting scammed.” Thinking about this makes these hustlers in Havana look a bit less scary. They are so easy to spot, and what’s the most they will get, a buck or two, maybe ten or twenty if you let them attach themselves to you for the evening? In LA, hustlers are more sophisticated, with greater consequence. Both open with the same lines, “Where are you from,” and, “My friend!” Hustlers are always your best friends, and hookers always love you, but I’ll take the Habana jinetero over the LA movie agent any day.

(Ps. In case any Hollywood agents are reading this, I meant those other guys, you know, the ones we hate)

December 20, 2006

COWBOY SALSA

We saw kids playing baseball with a bottlecap and an umbrella today. I wish I had a Louisville Slugger to give them for Christmas. I don’t know what Cuban Christmas situation is yet, but they do have something called Noche Buena, the night before Christmas, and a Cuban family has kindly invited us to join them for pig and rum.

Mabel, our salsa teacher, cooked for us. She made black beans and rice, as well as a yucca dish that has sause made of garlic, oil, and orange. Que rico, as a Cuban would say, especially since we have been eating rice and beans for days. She says she loves Texas because of what she has seen in the movies, so we let her try out the hat. Yeehaw!


December 19, 2006

LIL’ CAP’N CHAVEZ

(No, Andrew, we did not finally kill off that Chavez character for the sake of the film. We just put him in a coma. That way he's easier to resurrect when we can’t think of another storyline.)

News from the Captain:

Captain Chavez succesfully got the Saltwater Cowboy off the desert island and into a marina on the coast of Belize, where it will be easier to repair. He is returning to Houston with a bag full of boat parts for Christmas and New Years, then will continue as planned. Alright!

If you see him in the USA, be kind – he’s been alone on a desert island for weeks, eating fish and drinking straight rum, the poor guy.

December 18, 2006

CAPTURING THE SUN

The only important news today is that I have to retract my statement about ABBA being banned. Last night, they had a two-hour television special which played every ABBA song, ever. I guess they showed us.

December 17, 2006

WANDERING IS FREE

As we wait, we can do nothing but wander around La Havana, because wandering is free. We walked to the capitol, patterned after the US capitol and perhaps more grand, to take revolutionary photos. What do you think? Jack might have me beat but I’ll never tell him!


Here was the view:

Then we went to the park to interview a beardless Abe Lincoln. He claimed he didn’t have his beard because it was too revolutionary, which made us feel bad for taking the photos, but he is honest Abe, popular even here in Havana, so we defer to him.

Then we saw a super sweet Thunderbird.

At home we continue waiting, unable to do anything but watch out neighbors dance the night away. Loud salsa and club music pumps out of their house on a Sunday night and with paper-thin walls the whole block rocks, yet no one complains. The father twirls the mother and then their two daughters to the music. They pause to eat home-made pizza, then resume dancing. One gets the feeling that if a child grows in Cuba without learning to Salsa, the whole country has failed. Will Jack and I ever learn? I guess you’ll have to watch Cowboy in Cuba to find out!

December 15, 2006

THE WORD ON THE MALECON

The general feeling on the streets of Havana is that Castro is down for the count. No one will say exactly this, but if you form the question like, “when Castro returns, do you think [insert question]?,” They scoff, as if him returning is an unspoken, yet obviously far-fetched idea. They might come out and say this, but only in a comfortable situation. When pressed, they might say something like, “who knows, we will see.”

Raul extended an olive branch on December 2nd to open new talks with the US. His wording was one of those political buzz phrases that don’t sound like much, but carry a great deal of weight to people who understand them. Residents say things like, “Never before, in 50 years, has Castro said this, and now Raul is saying it.” There is something afoot. I personally feel that the Castro brothers have a plan, and that Fidel is not down for the count, but because of past history, has decided to lay low for a while. He must know that someone needs to solve this Cuba/US stale-mate – just walking the streets of Havana will tell you that – and he must recognize it would be an absolving swan song. Of course, he could be an anti-impirielista to the bone, and sick in bed with cancer and hatred, but Raul’s speech says differently. Two telling moves are that he didn’t show up to the Non-Aligned Summit, a gathering of the who’s who of US antagonists, and did not make a birthday appearance, allowing instead a slightly new guard, granted it’s his brother and fellow revolutionary, to make the offer.

The US State Department immediately rejected it.

Today a group of US congressmen arrive in Havana, though they said the timing of the visit has nothing to do with Raul’s gesture, and was planned beforehand.

Ed McWilliams, blogging live, Havana, Cuba.

December 14, 2006

YUMAS BARBERAS

Here is what we make Cuban coffee out of:

Cubans even have a unique way of speaking. Here are some Cubanisms:

Barbero – “cool,” or killer.
Fiana – police cruiser
Jintinero – tout, hustler
La lucha – the daily struggle (lit. “the fight.” When you ask people how they are they say, “luchando”)
Pollito – pretty girl
Por la izquierda – the black market
Que es la mecanica – what’s the process here (v. imp. since the process is always loco)
Tortillera – lesbian, dyke
Yuma – someone from the US


December 13, 2006

BLUE RIBBON

Good news today! We found the following in a big supermercado called Epoca:

This is the brand of rice our dad founded. It’s the only kind they carry. Again, through the misadventures we find another sign we are on the right track.

The host family informed me that a number of US congressmen are coming to meet Raul. It would sure be nice to have CNN, or even Fox News at this point. If anyone knows about this, please drop me an email.

December 12, 2006

THE PROCESS AND THE WOMEN

People have a strange opinion about Americans here, that we are all vegitarians and non-smokers – basically, they think we’re squares. They are surprised when we eat animal, then bust out our Cuban cigars.

We went to Rolo’s film today, El Proceso, which was very interesting and well done. He had great access to many places, and somehow shot quite a bit in the States. The story is about five Cubans who were arrested in the USA.

They were infiltrating orginizations in Miami thought to be behind terrorism that has occurred in Cuba. The US arrested them for being terrorists, then tried them in Miami, where the Cubans claim they will not get a fair trial. The five are still in jail there. In light of the post 9/11 era, and the belief that countries have rights to use spies in other countries for national security, it’s an interesting twist on the system. Could you imagine if the US sent them to Guantanemo with other POWS?

Hopefully, the film gets out to more Americans, because it was something I knew nothing about, and a very strange case in a very strange time of the world.

Rolando, who in one of those bizzare coincidences has a sister living the Woodlands – a suburb of Houston – invited us to sit with the filmmakers during the screening, and said our opinion was very important to him because we are Americans.

One of the producers is from San Fransisco, and she thought our project was fascinating. She introduced us to three women who were there for the film. One was a professor of architecture at the University of Havana, and she said our project is very important, for reasons we will explain in our film. We, of course, agreed with her.

The second was an abuela who is famous here in Cuba. She lives in a barrio on the periphery of Havana – a place not even Cubans want to visit. It makes the ghettos of the US look posh; buildings are falling down, many of them don’t even have roofs. Hungry, sick people fight the daily struggle to get what they need to live. She gathered more than 80 mothers and together they learned how to build and fix things, then began putting up buildings themselves, some as high as five stories. She won an international humanitarian award, voted on by 50 countries, and went on an international speaking tour. That’s how you change the world from your home, right there.

Her daughter, the third woman, is a tall, striking black girl with curly red hair who teaches dance. She is going to teach us salsa, if we in turn teach her English. All in a good day’s work.

December 11, 2006

Cars and Cigars

The Cuban family we know gave us presents: rice, sugar, bananas, coffee, cigars, recipis for beans, etc. Street bread which is much better than store bread. Jack displays the box of cigars they gave us (in a store you have to pay $700.00 or so for this same box. For us, however, gratis).

I am sure you’d rather pictures of girls, but I’ll give you pictures of cars.

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